by Mango
Panda had read about the brunch served at the Ritz Carlton Cafe, and we figured it would be neat to put on our fancy pants and eat at a fancy pants place. So we gathered together a few good friends, and worked out an eating strategy in advance. The buffet hours were 11:00 AM to 2:30 PM. Needless to say, we were there from start to finish. The Cafe itself was of course, pretty fancy. Perfect plate settings. Perfectly aligned silver chafers. Perfect presentation.
The actual brunch items - eggs benedict, waffles, made-to-order omelettes, bacon, sausage etc - were rather underwhelming. The lunch items on the other hand, were outstanding. Especially the lobster mac and cheese. Chunks of sweet lobster meat and peas amongst cheesy macaroni. We didn't get a good picture of it because we were too distracted by its deliciousness. I think there's a little bit visible in the upper right corner of the plate.
Other items worth mentioning: mushroom gnocci, fried oysters, and strawberry tomato gazpacho. There was also a traditional carving station that offered lamb and pork. And a seafood station that had succulent crab legs and raw oysters - this was my favorite part of the buffet. Clearly, there was a lot to choose from. So our strategy was essentially, Eat. Rest. Repeat. And I'd say it worked, because we even had room for dessert. The presentation was of course, fantastic.
Unfortunately, it didn't quite measure up in taste. The banana pudding (isn't that little jar just precious?!) was good, and possibly my favorite out of whatever I sampled. Panda concurs.
I'm not sure how it's possible, but after dessert, we sampled a plate of cookies (Panda said the cookies were decent. I had no more room in my belly). We ended the meal with a nice cup of tea.
Overall, the experience was good. Most of the food items were just okay, but the service and atmosphere are excellent. It's all very perfect and fancy (I'd be lying if I said I wasn't tempted to leave a booger somewhere) but fancy can be good once in a while. And if you're with the right company, it can be a blast. Maybe it's something we'll do once a year.
Panda: That was all pretty good.
Mango: What was your favorite?
Panda: Definitely the lobster mac and cheese.
Mango: What are you getting for the second round?
Panda: I was thinking about getting an entire plate of mac and cheese, actually.
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Monday, May 28, 2012
Quickie: Kimchi and Bacon Fried Rice
by Panda
This is just quick blog post about a dish that, while really simple, really makes me happy. It combines both sides of my heritage using two ingredients - bacon and kimchi. These two things were made for each other. The bacon is smokey and unctuous, and the kimchi is hot and a bit sour. They balance each other perfectly. The only word of caution I would give is that they're both pretty salty, so when you make this dish, be sure to check it for seasoning before adding salt.
Oh, and if you want to take it over the top, throw a fried egg on top when it's all done.
Kimchi and Bacon Fried Rice
3c day old rice (we like brown rice... your mileage may vary)*
1.5c cabbage kimchi, chopped
1 large carrot, sliced thin
2 green onions, roughly chopped
1/2tbsp grated ginger
3 green thai chiles, minced
3 slices bacon, sliced
2tbsp toasted sesame oil
1tbsp soy sauce
Heat wok up over medium high heat. Add toasted sesame oil and bacon. Cook until the bacon just starts to crisp up (it should still have some chew to it). Add chiles, cook for about 30 seconds. Add carrot, green onion, and kimchi. Cook for about a minute. Add rice, stir to combine and to break the rice up into individual grains. Add soy sauce. Salt and pepper to taste.
* - If you don't have day old rice, use this trick from Ming Tsai: make a batch of rice, spread it out on a sheet tray, and then put it in the freezer for an hour (or in the fridge for a few hours). This will dry the rice out a bit before you cook with it. Using slightly dry rice is absolutely crucial for good fried rice!
Panda: What should we have for dessert after fried rice?
Mango: What do we have?
Panda: We have butterscotch cupcakes, and that key lime gelato.
Mango: Let's have the gelato after dinner, because it would be nice after having something spicy.
Panda: So you're saying we should have cupcakes now, and gelato later.
Mango: .....yes.
This is just quick blog post about a dish that, while really simple, really makes me happy. It combines both sides of my heritage using two ingredients - bacon and kimchi. These two things were made for each other. The bacon is smokey and unctuous, and the kimchi is hot and a bit sour. They balance each other perfectly. The only word of caution I would give is that they're both pretty salty, so when you make this dish, be sure to check it for seasoning before adding salt.
Oh, and if you want to take it over the top, throw a fried egg on top when it's all done.
Kimchi and Bacon Fried Rice
3c day old rice (we like brown rice... your mileage may vary)*
1.5c cabbage kimchi, chopped
1 large carrot, sliced thin
2 green onions, roughly chopped
1/2tbsp grated ginger
3 green thai chiles, minced
3 slices bacon, sliced
2tbsp toasted sesame oil
1tbsp soy sauce
Heat wok up over medium high heat. Add toasted sesame oil and bacon. Cook until the bacon just starts to crisp up (it should still have some chew to it). Add chiles, cook for about 30 seconds. Add carrot, green onion, and kimchi. Cook for about a minute. Add rice, stir to combine and to break the rice up into individual grains. Add soy sauce. Salt and pepper to taste.
* - If you don't have day old rice, use this trick from Ming Tsai: make a batch of rice, spread it out on a sheet tray, and then put it in the freezer for an hour (or in the fridge for a few hours). This will dry the rice out a bit before you cook with it. Using slightly dry rice is absolutely crucial for good fried rice!
Panda: What should we have for dessert after fried rice?
Mango: What do we have?
Panda: We have butterscotch cupcakes, and that key lime gelato.
Mango: Let's have the gelato after dinner, because it would be nice after having something spicy.
Panda: So you're saying we should have cupcakes now, and gelato later.
Mango: .....yes.
Saturday, May 5, 2012
Offally Good: Braised and Fried Chicken Gizzards
by Panda
I remember first trying chicken gizzards when I was a kid. My first thought was that I was eating a ball of rubber bands - tasty rubber bands, mind you. It felt like I had to chew forever to get these things down. A chicken gizzard can be one of the chewiest things on Earth; after all, chickens use these things to pulverize their food with, so you can imagine how tough they probably are. I had tried them several times after that, but I always had the same experience. Tasty, but chewy.
I picked up some chicken gizzards on a whim from DeKalb Farmer's Market (our favorite place to shop for groceries). How do you make these things chewable, I thought? A light bulb went off in my head: braise them. Braising will break down and tenderize the toughest meats. Then another light bulb went off: I had wanted to make some fried chicken for a while, so why not braise them, then fry them? Then a third light bulb went off, and I became a chandelier.
I got my pot hot, then added some bacon fat (you do have a jar of bacon fat to cook with, don't you?) I added the gizzards to the pot, and seasoned with salt and pepper. I let them cook until nicely browned, then added some chopped onions and allowed them to sweat. Some garlic cloves went in, and then I had to deglaze the pan with something. My favorite formula for a braise is browned meat, a flavorful liquid, something with a bit of tang to it, and aromatics. I once again turned to beer to serve as my flavorful liquid.
Beer went into the pot to deglaze. I scraped up the bottom with a wooden spoon, then added chicken stock and a bundle of thyme and a quarter of a lemon.
Braised and Fried Chicken Gizzards
1lb chicken gizzards
1tbsp bacon fat (or whatever oil you prefer)
1 bottle of beer (nothing too dark or hoppy)
1 medium onion, chopped
3 cloves garlic, smashed and peeled.
2c chicken stock
1/4 lemon
1 small bunch of thyme
2tbsp sriracha or other hot sauce
2tbsp buttermilk
2/3c all purpose flour
1/3c corn starch
*2 heaping tablespoons Panda Standard Chicken Seasoning (see below)
Peanut oil for frying
* or 1 heaping tbsp of salt + 1/2tbsp of pepper, or whatever seasoning you prefer
Heat a thick-bottomed pot over medium high heat. Add bacon fat. Season gizzards with salt and pepper, then add them to your pot. Brown on all sides. Reduce heat to medium and add your onions. Cook the onions until sweated (translucent). Add garlic and cook another minute more. Turn the heat back on high, then add half of your beer to deglaze (save the other half for drinking). Scrape the brown bits off the bottom of your pot with a wooden spoon. Squeeze the lemon into the pot, then add the lemon, thyme, and chicken stock; if the gizzards are still exposed just add water until they are covered. Bring the mixture to a boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer. Cover and let the gizzards braise for an hour and a half, checking every 20 minutes; if the liquid is too low you should add more water. When the gizzards are done, remove them from the braise and put them in the refrigerator. Cook the braise over medium heat, stirring constantly, until it reduces to a glaze - you should be able to drag your spoon through it and leave a clear trail that is apparent for about half a second. Pour the glaze into a bowl, and put it in the refrigerator to cool.
Pour enough peanut oil into a cast iron pan (or a heavy bottomed pan or pot that can be used for frying). Combined the flour, corn starch and seasoning in a container with a lid. Put the lid on and shake to combine. When the braising reduction has cooled, remove about 4tbsp of it and put it into a bowl along with the sriracha and buttermilk. Mix to combine. Add the cooled chicken gizzards to the flour container, lid and shake to coat evenly. Shake off excess flour using a mesh strainer. Add the gizzards to the bowl with the liquid mixture. Mix and coat evenly. Return the gizzards back to the seasoned flour - add the lid and shake again to coat evenly. When the oil reaches 375F (use an oil thermometer) add your gizzards. Cook until the coating is nicely browned; note that the temperature used is higher than with standard fried chicken, so the coating will cook and brown quickly - be sure to turn the gizzards over quickly to avoid burning. When done, place the gizzards on a wire rack to cool. Add additional salt and pepper immediately. Serve while hot.
Panda's Standard Chicken Seasoning
1 part peppercorns
1 part coriander seed
1 part fennel seed
1 part dried herbs* (I usually use herbs de provence, but rosemary or thyme are good too)
1 part kosher salt
Combined the first 4 ingredients in a spice grinder. Grind until course. Pour into a container and add kosher salt. Stir to combine.
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| Like really, really good chicken nuggets. |
I remember first trying chicken gizzards when I was a kid. My first thought was that I was eating a ball of rubber bands - tasty rubber bands, mind you. It felt like I had to chew forever to get these things down. A chicken gizzard can be one of the chewiest things on Earth; after all, chickens use these things to pulverize their food with, so you can imagine how tough they probably are. I had tried them several times after that, but I always had the same experience. Tasty, but chewy.
I picked up some chicken gizzards on a whim from DeKalb Farmer's Market (our favorite place to shop for groceries). How do you make these things chewable, I thought? A light bulb went off in my head: braise them. Braising will break down and tenderize the toughest meats. Then another light bulb went off: I had wanted to make some fried chicken for a while, so why not braise them, then fry them? Then a third light bulb went off, and I became a chandelier.
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| Brown = flavor. |
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| This is some delicious stuff. Highly recommended. |
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| Those chunks you see are cubes of frozen chicken stock melting into the braise. |
I brought this to a boil, then reduced it to a low simmer, covered it, and retired to the living room to enjoy the rest of my beer. I checked on it every 20 minutes or so. An hour and a half later the gizzards were ready. Normally when I braise things, I like to leave them in the braise in the fridge overnight so that the flavors can marry and penetrate even more, but Mango and I were hungry; do this if you get a chance.
I removed the gizzards and put them in the fridge to cool. So I was left with this really tasty braising liquid, and I was trying to figure out what to do with it. One of my favorite things to do is to remove the inedible parts, then blend it to make it into a gravy, cooking it over heat again to thicken it up if need be. I wasn't planning on having gravy with this meal, so what to do? I knew that I was going to chicken fry these gizzards later... why not thicken the braising liquid and use it as the liquid component for the fried chicken coating? I cooked it down until it was a glaze, then scooped it into a bowl, and it joined the gizzards in the fridge.
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| If you can run a wooded spoon through it, and it leaves a trail before coming back together, it's thick enough. |
After everything had cooled down, I heated up some peanut oil in my cast iron pan (you do have a cast iron pan, don't you?) Meanwhile, I got my other ingredients ready. I mixed together some all-purpose flour and some corn starch, and added in some of my Panda's Standard Chicken Seasoning (just salt and pepper would be fine too, or whatever other spices you enjoy with chicken). In another bowl I mixed together the braise reduction, buttermilk, and sriracha (you do have a bottle of -
Mango: *slap* Stop it.
Panda: OW! OK. Geeze.
I dropped the gizzards into the seasoned flour, then the liquid mixture, then back into the seasoned flour.
Mango: *slap* Stop it.
Panda: OW! OK. Geeze.
I dropped the gizzards into the seasoned flour, then the liquid mixture, then back into the seasoned flour.
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| Be sure to shake off your excess flour. A mesh strainer works great for this. |
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| Buttermilk and sriracha with the braise reduction. Any hot sauce will do, but sriracha is one of our favorites. |
All that was left to do was to fry them. Remember, these were already cooked when I braised them! So frying them only served to add a crunchy coating and to warm them back up. I let them drain a bit on a paper towel set on a wire rack. Meanwhile, Mango threw together a salad with some stuff we had on hand.
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| You do have a salad making Mango, don't you? |
And there you go. Dinner was served.
I was really happy with how these turned out. The meat was nice and tender, and the coating was crunchy. The braising reduction added a really nice flavor to the coating. Mango's salad was a perfect accompaniment, especially at this time of year. It occurred to me that this would make a killer fried chicken salad... let me know if any of you try this.
1lb chicken gizzards
1tbsp bacon fat (or whatever oil you prefer)
1 bottle of beer (nothing too dark or hoppy)
1 medium onion, chopped
3 cloves garlic, smashed and peeled.
2c chicken stock
1/4 lemon
1 small bunch of thyme
2tbsp sriracha or other hot sauce
2tbsp buttermilk
2/3c all purpose flour
1/3c corn starch
*2 heaping tablespoons Panda Standard Chicken Seasoning (see below)
Peanut oil for frying
* or 1 heaping tbsp of salt + 1/2tbsp of pepper, or whatever seasoning you prefer
Heat a thick-bottomed pot over medium high heat. Add bacon fat. Season gizzards with salt and pepper, then add them to your pot. Brown on all sides. Reduce heat to medium and add your onions. Cook the onions until sweated (translucent). Add garlic and cook another minute more. Turn the heat back on high, then add half of your beer to deglaze (save the other half for drinking). Scrape the brown bits off the bottom of your pot with a wooden spoon. Squeeze the lemon into the pot, then add the lemon, thyme, and chicken stock; if the gizzards are still exposed just add water until they are covered. Bring the mixture to a boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer. Cover and let the gizzards braise for an hour and a half, checking every 20 minutes; if the liquid is too low you should add more water. When the gizzards are done, remove them from the braise and put them in the refrigerator. Cook the braise over medium heat, stirring constantly, until it reduces to a glaze - you should be able to drag your spoon through it and leave a clear trail that is apparent for about half a second. Pour the glaze into a bowl, and put it in the refrigerator to cool.
Pour enough peanut oil into a cast iron pan (or a heavy bottomed pan or pot that can be used for frying). Combined the flour, corn starch and seasoning in a container with a lid. Put the lid on and shake to combine. When the braising reduction has cooled, remove about 4tbsp of it and put it into a bowl along with the sriracha and buttermilk. Mix to combine. Add the cooled chicken gizzards to the flour container, lid and shake to coat evenly. Shake off excess flour using a mesh strainer. Add the gizzards to the bowl with the liquid mixture. Mix and coat evenly. Return the gizzards back to the seasoned flour - add the lid and shake again to coat evenly. When the oil reaches 375F (use an oil thermometer) add your gizzards. Cook until the coating is nicely browned; note that the temperature used is higher than with standard fried chicken, so the coating will cook and brown quickly - be sure to turn the gizzards over quickly to avoid burning. When done, place the gizzards on a wire rack to cool. Add additional salt and pepper immediately. Serve while hot.
Panda's Standard Chicken Seasoning
1 part peppercorns
1 part coriander seed
1 part fennel seed
1 part dried herbs* (I usually use herbs de provence, but rosemary or thyme are good too)
1 part kosher salt
Combined the first 4 ingredients in a spice grinder. Grind until course. Pour into a container and add kosher salt. Stir to combine.
Wednesday, May 2, 2012
Offally Fun: Liver Chilli Fry
by Mango
I used to hate liver as a kid. But as an adult, I grew to tolerate it. And then, during a research sabbatical in Prague in 2010, I visited an old friend and his wife who prepared a local Czech dish of chicken livers stewed in a rich rosemary gravy, served with a side of crusty bread. I loved it. She kindly shared her recipe with me, and every time we've picked up chicken livers from the farmer's market, I've made her dish. This time though, I wanted to try something different, so I Googled liver recipes. A bunch of Indian spicy stir fry recipes (or chilli fry, as I'm used to calling it) popped up. I combined ingredients from reading some of these and the end result was delicious. Remember how I said Indian spices can overpower a dish? With chicken liver, that would be especially welcomed! Side note: a pound of chicken liver at the market cost us $2.97. Good for your wallet, and good for you. So, here are the ingredients:
Half a large onion, sliced
I used to hate liver as a kid. But as an adult, I grew to tolerate it. And then, during a research sabbatical in Prague in 2010, I visited an old friend and his wife who prepared a local Czech dish of chicken livers stewed in a rich rosemary gravy, served with a side of crusty bread. I loved it. She kindly shared her recipe with me, and every time we've picked up chicken livers from the farmer's market, I've made her dish. This time though, I wanted to try something different, so I Googled liver recipes. A bunch of Indian spicy stir fry recipes (or chilli fry, as I'm used to calling it) popped up. I combined ingredients from reading some of these and the end result was delicious. Remember how I said Indian spices can overpower a dish? With chicken liver, that would be especially welcomed! Side note: a pound of chicken liver at the market cost us $2.97. Good for your wallet, and good for you. So, here are the ingredients:
Half a large onion, sliced
3 garlic cloves, chopped
Grated ginger (about a teaspoon’s worth)
5 Thai green chillies, chopped (you can adjust accordingly based on your heat preference)
1 medium or large tomato, chopped
1/2 tsp freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon turmeric
1 teaspoon red chilli powder
1/2 teaspoon
garam masala
A pinch sugar
Half a lemon
One pound of chicken livers
Oil and water as needed.
I forgot to include the tomatoes and lemon in this pic. Garam (hot) masala is a spice blend available in any Indian store or international market. The blend I used is my mom's homemade roasted version. My mom smuggles many an item into the country from overseas whenever she visits, whether I like it or not. A typical conversation with my mom before she visits from Dubai:
Mom: Shall I bring you some dried chillies and masala?
Mango: No mom, it's okay, thanks. I have Indian stores down the road from me and they have everything.
Mom: Okay, I'll bring it for you.
Mango: *Sigh*
I love her for it though. Anyhoo, fire up a pan on medium-high heat. Add a little oil and throw in onions, green chillies, garlic, ginger, and a pinch of salt. Fry until onions soften and start to brown, 5 minutes. Toss in tomatoes, stir, add in all of the black pepper, and half of the turmeric and half of the chilli powder. Stir fry for 5-10 minutes. Add a little oil or water as needed if it starts to dry out.
While the onion and tomato base is frying (or prior to starting this dish!), prep the chicken livers. Rinse the livers thoroughly in cold water to get rid of excess blood. Trim fat and chop into bite-sized chunks.
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| Squeaky clean raw chicken livers after a good rinsing. |
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| Trimming fat. |
Add the ground pepper, generous pinch of salt, half of the turmeric and half of the chilli powder to the livers. Gently stir and let it sit for a couple of minutes.
Move the fried onion and tomato base towards the pan's edges. Add a little oil to the pan's center and gently plop half of the chicken livers in the heated oil. Brown on both sides (about 1-2 minutes per side).
Move the seared livers to the pan's edges and repeat the browning process with the remaining chicken livers. Then stir everything together, add the pinch of sugar, more salt if necessary, and continue to cook on high heat for further 5-10 minutes, stirring frequently. I like to leave the livers a little tender and dark pink in the middle, but you can cook it to your preference of doneness. Turn off heat, squeeze half a lemon over the liver chilli fry and serve.
We had it over brown rice with a side of veggies. I was pleasantly surprised by this dish, will definitely make it again. If liver grosses you out, I'd encourage you to give it a try at least once. It can be delicious, and it packs a number health benefits. And it's CHEAP!
Mango: It's ready for your belly!
Panda: I'm glad you made veggies too. My gastrointestinal tract thanks you.
(*Note: he had a very different word choice for GI tract, but to keep things non-disgusting, it was omitted).
Thursday, April 26, 2012
A Break from the Kitchen: Shoya Izakaya
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| Avoid the temptation to hit this just to see if it works. |
Mango:
Wednesday evening was a pretty long day at work for the both of us, and we really weren't in the mood to cook. Panda offered to make some stew with leftover frozen brisket. I offered to take Panda for dinner instead. Because even endangered species need a break from the kitchen. Since we were in the mood for something stew-y or soup-y, we went to Shoya Izakaya. Quite possibly, the best Japanese restaurant in Atlanta. And the best part is that it's just 10 minutes away from us. It's very unassuming on the outside - it sits in an almost-empty strip mall near H-mart, so after we eat we usually waddle over to H-mart to get Korean fare or just walk around (Panda really loves walking around in grocery stores and markets). On the inside, Shoya is so cozy. Wood paneling, simple layout.
And the food is just as simple. Clean, crisp and pure so that you can really taste and appreciate the core ingredients. With most Indian food - there's an explosion of flavor (no doubt), but the main ingredients, be it fish, pork or chicken, can sometimes get lost in it all. There's actually a pretty neat article about this by Sanjeev Kapoor, an Indian chef I grew up watching on Khana Khazana (Zee TV shout out to my Indian peeps! haha). Check out the article if you have the chance.
Anyhooo, when at Shoya, I always order the marinated salmon. It's buttery melt-in-your mouth salmon sashimi that's rolled around julienned cucumber, marinated in olive oil (not sesame, although there's something else in there that I can't put my finger on) and other magical ingredients. It's served with seaweed and other types of sea-fare and veggies that I can't always identify. Amazing every time.
As my main dish, I ordered the nabeyaki udon, which is fish broth served in a hot pot with tempura shrimp, scallion, greens, mushrooms, fried bean curd, fish cakes, and my favorite, FAVORITE part: a poached egg.
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SO GOOD. Panda, you concur?
Panda:
Yes, I concur. Poached eggs make anything better. Much like bacon. Adding both bacon and a poached egg to anything is like cheating.
I was pretty hungry, having worked out a little earlier. Moreover, I was seriously thirsty. A Kirin Ichiban quenched my thirst quite nicely, and really does go well with Japanese fare. A little trivia - A kirin is a mythological Japanese creature, also known as a dragon horse. I don't know what that has to do with beer... maybe if you drink enough of it you see one.
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| Check out the cool cup the Kirin came in. All of their dishes and cups are really cool. |
For my main course, I got the tonkatsu ramen. Tonkatsu broth is made from pork bones, typically the bones from trotters. Unlike European style stocks, tonkatsu broth is made by splitting the bones and boiling them at a higher temperature. The marrow in the bones melts into the stock, becoming part of it. The result is a rich, creamy broth with a ton of flavor. I plan on trying to make some soon. While I will say that I think Raku in Duluth may have better tonkatsu, Shoya's is a very, very close second.
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| Tonkatsu ramen with roast pork, soy marinated egg, and other goodies . The broth is creamy looking; you'd think they put milk in it, but that's just from pork bones. |
Mango: Why are eggs so delicious?
Panda: I know, right? Pretty tasty for something that comes out of a chicken's butt.
Tuesday, April 24, 2012
Off the Cuff: Cocoa and Chile Rubbed Braised Brisket
by Panda
Last week, Mango and I picked up a 3lb brisket from DeKalb Farmer's Market to use for making burgers with. We found ourselves without dinner options one night, so I portioned out 1lb of the brisket to make us dinner with.
We'll often buy meat and other ingredients to make meals with, with no set plans as to what to do with them. Not only do I find it fun to improvise, but I also think being able to put something together with what you have on hand is a useful skill; you don't always have everything readily available for making a specific dish with. And, as a bonus, you may just come up with a new recipe that you'd enjoy making again. Typically when I throw stuff together I choose ingredients for a reason... I almost always try to include something sweet, something tangy, and something earthy (umami), and also usually something aromatic. These flavors may come in different proportions depending on what I'm going for, but they're usually in there in some way or another.
I thought that it would be nice to do a coffee rub, as I had spoken with a friend of mine the other night about it. Coffee and red meat marry well together. However, after digging around in our cabinets, I wasn't able to find anything that I thought would work well with it. Then I spotted some cocoa nibs.
I don't remember what I bought these for - I think to brew cocoa tea with? - but they weren't doing anything sitting there in our cabinet, and I thought they would be a great replacement for coffee in my rub.
Into my spice grinder went the cocoa nibs, along with some cinnamon and peppercorns. I then added this to my mortar and pestal, along with chopped garlic, salt, olive oil, chipotle pepper, and a tiny bit of honey.
I opened the brisket up with my knife, first cutting width-wise into the meat (with the grain) through the top 1/3 of the thickness of the meat, and then again through the last 2/3 of the meat to make one thin, wide piece of meat. I took my rub and rubbed it all over the inside and outside of the meat, then rolled it back up (basically into its original shape). The meat went into my hot cast iron pan to sear on all sides.
Now for the braise. I decided to use onions as a base, so I sliced one up and threw it into the pan, letting the onions break down and caramelize. Now what could I use for liquid? No beef stock handy, and no red wine... but look at what I found.
Last week, Mango and I picked up a 3lb brisket from DeKalb Farmer's Market to use for making burgers with. We found ourselves without dinner options one night, so I portioned out 1lb of the brisket to make us dinner with.
We'll often buy meat and other ingredients to make meals with, with no set plans as to what to do with them. Not only do I find it fun to improvise, but I also think being able to put something together with what you have on hand is a useful skill; you don't always have everything readily available for making a specific dish with. And, as a bonus, you may just come up with a new recipe that you'd enjoy making again. Typically when I throw stuff together I choose ingredients for a reason... I almost always try to include something sweet, something tangy, and something earthy (umami), and also usually something aromatic. These flavors may come in different proportions depending on what I'm going for, but they're usually in there in some way or another.
I thought that it would be nice to do a coffee rub, as I had spoken with a friend of mine the other night about it. Coffee and red meat marry well together. However, after digging around in our cabinets, I wasn't able to find anything that I thought would work well with it. Then I spotted some cocoa nibs.
I don't remember what I bought these for - I think to brew cocoa tea with? - but they weren't doing anything sitting there in our cabinet, and I thought they would be a great replacement for coffee in my rub.
I opened the brisket up with my knife, first cutting width-wise into the meat (with the grain) through the top 1/3 of the thickness of the meat, and then again through the last 2/3 of the meat to make one thin, wide piece of meat. I took my rub and rubbed it all over the inside and outside of the meat, then rolled it back up (basically into its original shape). The meat went into my hot cast iron pan to sear on all sides.
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| I didn't have any string to tie it up with, so I just kept it together with tongs while it seared. |
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| Don't freak out. I know this is a good beer. I only used some of it. I drank the rest :D |
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| Deglazing the delicousness. |
Stout and beef are good friends, and the chocolatey flavor of the stout
would go perfectly with the cocoa nibs. I also threw in a bit of
balsamic for a little more sweetness and tang, and a bit of soy sauce to
boost the umami. Once I scraped up all the good bits from the pan,
everything went into some foil together, and I pinched the foil shut to
make a package for the beef to braise in. Using a foil package is nice,
because it keeps the meat nice and moist, and you don't need a lot of
liquid to braise the meat in. Into a 350F oven it went, along with some
potatoes I wanted to roast (and then some asparagus a half an hour
later) in a separate container. An hour later I was rewarded with some tasty, tasty brisket. I let it rest, then sliced it and put it back in the braising liquid to stay warm and soak up some more flavor. I finished up the roasted veg and made a quick tomato and onion salad to go with.
And there you go. Might I suggest you enjoy this with a hot flakey biscuit?
Mango: I can't remember what we talked about when we were cooking this.
Panda: Probably buttocks.
Chile and Cocoa Rubbed Braised Brisket
1lb brisket, preferably the fat end (another cut of meat will work for this as well)
Small handful cocoa nibs
Small handful ground chipotle chile
5 finger pinch of salt
About 1tbsp of peppercorns
1 cinnamon stick
3 cloves garlic
1tbsp balsamic vinegar
1tbsp soy sauce
Olive oil
1 large red onion, sliced
1c stout beer
Preheat your oven to 350F, and heat a cast iron pan (a regular frying pan will do if you don't have one) over medium heat.
Grind the cocoa nibs, peppercorns and cinnamon stick in a spice grinder until medium course (keep an eye on this, because the fat in the cocoa nibs may make them stick to the sides of the spice grinder). Add this mixture to a mortar and pestal along with the garlic, salt, chipotle pepper, and a bit of olive oil. Grind into a paste - if the paste is too thick add a bit more olive oil. You want a consistency that will allow you to rub this all over the meat.
Open your meat up by slicing
into the top 3rd of the meat and opening it like a book. Then slice
into the bottom 2/3 of the meat and open that towards the other side -
this will give you one thin, wide piece of meat. Rub the paste all over the meat, then roll the meat back up. Optionally, you can tie the meat together using some cooking twine to help it hold its shape.
Add some olive oil to your pan. Sear the meat on all sides until nicely browned, then remove. Lower the heat to medium. Add a bit more oil, then your sliced onion. Stir the onion around until the onion is brown and caramelized. Deglaze your pan with the beer, balsamic and soy sauce - scrape with a wooden spoon to remove all the bits on the bottom of the pan.
Add the mixture from your pan along with your beef to a piece of aluminum foil (be sure to fold it up a bit before doing this so that it doesn't run out). Bring the foil up around the meat and fold it shut to create a package. Place this package in an oven proof baking dish (this is just in case there is a leak in the foil) and place the dish in the oven. Braise for at least 1 hour, preferably 1.5. Allow the meat to rest for at least 15 minutes, then slice and return to the baking dish along with the braising liquid.
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